The Farmers Dinner

Securing the future while seeking those who will curate it…

Lincoln Geiger is a sinuous, weathered man whose lanky frame carries no extra meat. He strides with the walk of a man whose legs are two-thirds of his body and cover a lot of ground, with a bit of a gimp.

He spoke last Saturday at Trauger Groh’s funeral; eloquently reading a fitting passage from Rudolf Steiner.

When I shall die, I’ll gladly give my being to the elements

To the elements I love

Spirit to flame

Soul to ether

Heart to wave

My body to the earth

The Spirit will blaze

The Soul shall Expand

The wave of my heart shall murmur and sound

The body shall rest

This Saturday, he graciously welcomed over a hundred people to a farm-to-table fundraising event to buy the farm he, Trauger, and Anthony Graham started in 1986. The Temple-Wilton Community Farm at Four Corners is the first CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) in America. An odd lot those three; Trauger was German, Anthony is from the UK and Lincoln grew up in Sweden. How they came to be in Wilton New Hampshire is a lovely bit of (to quote Dylan) a simple twist of fate.

The tickets to the dinner included a tour of the farm. I knew bits and pieces of its history from my association with Trauger and the relationship I had built with the resident cheese maker when I managed the oil & vinegar store.

I arrived to find a small group milling around. Lincoln gave a brief tour of the farm and a history of biodynamic farming.

Appropriate footwear here people! Did you not know you were visiting a cow barn at milking time??

Farmer Andrew is from Oregon; always a farm boy he is now seeing a different view of the mountain that farming in New England entails. He enthusiastically explained herd dynamics and the personalities of his beloved ladies. I always wondered why cows aren’t blanketed like horses in the dead of winter. He was pleased to talk ruminates vs. horses.

You’ve gotta love farm girls!

These lovely ladies were selling raffle ticket for a veggie basket, a meat basket, or a cheese basket. I signed right up for some of Benjamin’s Cheese! Didn’t win, but it was for a good cause. Benjamin the cheese maker (pronounced ben ya min) is another tall gangly man. Though many years younger than Lincoln, his gait and manner are very similar. He moved to Wilton from the Black Forest region of Germany and is a puppeteer in his spare time. To find him at the farmer’s market on a slow day is a guarantee of a quick marionette performance.

A long line of tables were set in the field with a 360° view of the mountains. Over 100 people gathered to feast and celebrate.

The Menu
Passed Appetizers

Grilled Zucchini, grilled tomato harissa with cow’s milk Feta

Chicken Liver Mousse on pumpernickel with leek chutney

Salted Cod & Potato terrine  and hot pepper relish on toast

Smoked Grass Fed Beef Tongue with a kohlrabi kimchi

Dinner

Gage Field – Beets, Quark cheese, Dill fermented chilis & cucumber

Photo Credit: L&S Photography

Lower Pasture – Pork Loin & Coppade Testa, zucchini mostada, sweet & spicy pickles with a wedge of Savage Road cheese

Photo Credit: L&S Photography

Hidden Meadow – Charred & Chilled Carrot Soup  with carrot green yogurt and Orchard Hill porcini crouton

Photo Credit: L&S Photography

Greenhouse Field – Poached Chicken & Boudin Blanc, with smoked tomato on a leek & sourdough puree

Photo Credit: L&S Photography

Upper Pasture – Melon & Rind with basil and pineapple weed ver jus

Randy’s Field – Carrot Cake with fennel creameux, hickory nut  & carrot halwa

Photo Credit: L&S Photo

The dinner and service were amazing,  with the proceeds going for the purchase of the farm. All the food was local and organic. The gods were pleased as the sunset was spectacular.

N.B. Thanks to Laura and Steve who had the forethought to take photos of the food while I was too busy eating!