Securing the future while seeking those who will curate it…
Lincoln Geiger is a sinuous, weathered man whose lanky frame carries no extra meat. He strides with the walk of a man whose legs are two-thirds of his body and cover a lot of ground, with a bit of a gimp.
He spoke last Saturday at Trauger Groh’s funeral; eloquently reading a fitting passage from Rudolf Steiner.
When I shall die, I’ll gladly give my being to the elements
To the elements I love
Spirit to flame
Soul to ether
Heart to wave
My body to the earth
The Spirit will blaze
The Soul shall Expand
The wave of my heart shall murmur and sound
The body shall rest
This Saturday, he graciously welcomed over a hundred people to a farm-to-table fundraising event to buy the farm he, Trauger, and Anthony Graham started in 1986. The Temple-Wilton Community Farm at Four Corners is the first CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) in America. An odd lot those three; Trauger was German, Anthony is from the UK and Lincoln grew up in Sweden. How they came to be in Wilton New Hampshire is a lovely bit of (to quote Dylan) a simple twist of fate.
The tickets to the dinner included a tour of the farm. I knew bits and pieces of its history from my association with Trauger and the relationship I had built with the resident cheese maker when I managed the oil & vinegar store.
Appropriate footwear here people! Did you not know you were visiting a cow barn at milking time??
Farmer Andrew is from Oregon; always a farm boy he is now seeing a different view of the mountain that farming in New England entails. He enthusiastically explained herd dynamics and the personalities of his beloved ladies. I always wondered why cows aren’t blanketed like horses in the dead of winter. He was pleased to talk ruminates vs. horses.
These lovely ladies were selling raffle ticket for a veggie basket, a meat basket, or a cheese basket. I signed right up for some of Benjamin’s Cheese! Didn’t win, but it was for a good cause. Benjamin the cheese maker (pronounced ben ya min) is another tall gangly man. Though many years younger than Lincoln, his gait and manner are very similar. He moved to Wilton from the Black Forest region of Germany and is a puppeteer in his spare time. To find him at the farmer’s market on a slow day is a guarantee of a quick marionette performance.
Grilled Zucchini, grilled tomato harissa with cow’s milk Feta
Chicken Liver Mousse on pumpernickel with leek chutney
Salted Cod & Potato terrine and hot pepper relish on toast
Smoked Grass Fed Beef Tongue with a kohlrabi kimchi
Gage Field – Beets, Quark cheese, Dill fermented chilis & cucumber
Lower Pasture – Pork Loin & Coppade Testa, zucchini mostada, sweet & spicy pickles with a wedge of Savage Road cheese
Hidden Meadow – Charred & Chilled Carrot Soup with carrot green yogurt and Orchard Hill porcini crouton
Greenhouse Field – Poached Chicken & Boudin Blanc, with smoked tomato on a leek & sourdough puree
Upper Pasture – Melon & Rind with basil and pineapple weed ver jus
Randy’s Field – Carrot Cake with fennel creameux, hickory nut & carrot halwa
The dinner and service were amazing, with the proceeds going for the purchase of the farm. All the food was local and organic. The gods were pleased as the sunset was spectacular.
N.B. Thanks to Laura and Steve who had the forethought to take photos of the food while I was too busy eating!